VQ30 400+ WHP mods list. Lets chalk it up !

[VIP Maxima]

The performance bug is biting me HARDER than ever before. Part of me wants to call quits and part of me feels like I am not using the blower for its full potential and have plenty of room for extra power.

With that in mind, an added bonous is the fact that CA is currently home to ONLY 5 boosted maximas and the maxima scene is a walking ghost here. People down here are CLUELESS to the fact that there are modded maximas out there, let alone boosted ones. I am THE ONLY boosted maxima in Los Angeles county and well past a 100 mile radius before other boosted guys come into the picture... i absolutly LOVEEE the fact that the scene is alllll mine for a good portion of SOCAL and i get to represent and want to be the "fast" max, not the "quick" one.

That said, I want to know what it takes to climb deep into 400's SC'D.....

With this mods list, I think we can hit 400 WITHOUT internal work (not planning to go there).

VQ30DE
V1 Plate, V2 Blower (T trim would be a monster but lets leave that out for now)
2.62 Pulley
3" Piping
Alcohol Injection or IC or After cooler with ice box
00VI
NWP Intake Spacers
Larger Injectors
EU + Rev Extender & Tune
Z32 MAF
Colder Plugs
Cattman Headers
Cattman Y
Hi Flow Cat
3" Catback
Fidanza FW (less drivetrain loss)

what else? chalk it up !!!

[SHIFTVQ35]

P&P your lower intake mani....I would say the upper too but i do not know much about 00vi's

And so far it seems to me that you have everything down already.

Dont quote me on this im dead tired right now........Oh alc injection will help out alot.

Goodnight...

[Qmax03]

how many psi are you ganna be running.. and i think a T-Trim will be needed.

a little 50shot will confirm for sure 400 !

[TBb15]

theres a guy on here making 497whp on a max somewhere, i don't know if it was stock or built.

nah but from what i heard/read there's a guy on here with a sick ass looking whip that made some great power on a stock motor. it wasn't 400 but he got damn close.. pretty much more than i myself thought was capable.

[Mr SpecVQ]

^^^impressive

[NNA_Admin]

I am going to build a similar setup in a few weeks, I will be real close to 400 fwhp .
Read my sig below.

[STuNtMAN]

mike with a 2.62 pulley you will constantly overspin the blower

[STuNtMAN]

The performance bug is biting me HARDER than ever before. Part of me wants to call quits and part of me feels like I am not using the blower for its full potential and have plenty of room for extra power.

With that in mind, an added bonous is the fact that CA is currently home to ONLY 5 boosted maximas and the maxima scene is a walking ghost here. People down here are CLUELESS to the fact that there are modded maximas out there, let alone boosted ones. I am THE ONLY boosted maxima in Los Angeles county and well past a 100 mile radius before other boosted guys come into the picture... i absolutly LOVEEE the fact that the scene is alllll mine for a good portion of SOCAL and i get to represent and want to be the "fast" max, not the "quick" one.

That said, I want to know what it takes to climb deep into 400's SC'D.....

With this mods list, I think we can hit 400 WITHOUT internal work (not planning to go there).

VQ30DE
V1 Plate, V2 Blower (T trim would be a monster but lets leave that out for now)
2.62 Pulley
3" Piping
Alcohol Injection or IC or After cooler with ice box
00VI
NWP Intake Spacers
Larger Injectors
EU + Rev Extender & Tune
Z32 MAF
Colder Plugs
Cattman Headers
Cattman Y
Hi Flow Cat
3" Catback
Fidanza FW (less drivetrain loss)

what else? chalk it up !!!



you forgot :
pathfinder TB
port & polish lower manifold
cams
fuel pressure regulator
75-100 of Nos dont wanna go more than that on a maxima unless its a bit built
weight reduction
EU is a must i see you got that on your list there is nothing better than having a fully tune car

theres more but im pretty tired so my thinking skills are not up to par right now

[Qmax03]

Yea ive heard and seen a 3.0L SC maxima hit 369WHP untunned, stock motor with over 150k miles.... Very impressive these 3.0L V6 motors.

[SecondToNone317]

I'll let you know when I dyno next season. But you're on the right track.


400 was real close on the butt dyno when I street tuned the car with bigger injectors and larger meth nozzle with real meth........just dont bounce that shit off the limiter cause thats where it went south forthe stock motor. However I am popping in another stock motor and gonna try this again. My AFR was at 11.4 on a cool night.

[M@neZ]

If you do the 00vi I don't think the spacer will make any difference since the manifold is plastic anyways

[SHIFTVQ35]

you forgot :
pathfinder TB
port & polish lower manifold
cams
fuel pressure regulator
75-100 of Nos dont wanna go more than that on a maxima unless its a bit built
weight reduction
EU is a must i see you got that on your list there is nothing better than having a fully tune car

theres more but im pretty tired so my thinking skills are not up to par right nowThe fpr is commonsense he knows to get that and he does not need cams to hit 400whp TRUST ME........... Some of these parts that we all go gaga over and spend all this $$$ to buy are bullshit! All your power will come with great tunning and the parts you have listed in your post.

A eu is not needed to make the hp either....... there have been many before him that made big powa t charged and s/c on a 3.0 motor without a eu but it is a great thing to invest in soooooooo get one lol.

[TUKO]

how strong are these 3.0's that they can handle boost and 100 shot? to me that seems like asking for trouble.

[SHIFTVQ35]

how strong are these 3.0's that they can handle boost and 100 shot? to me that seems like asking for trouble.3.0 bottom can handle a shit load compared to a 3.5 but i still would not chance it seeing that the motor is aging.

Now if he was building his motor then it's a different story.

[MAXSE2kMT]

Yea ive heard and seen a 3.0L SC maxima hit 369WHP untunned, stock motor with over 150k miles.... Very impressive these 3.0L V6 motors.

i call bullshit. and im still waiting for your dyno graph, honey

[Qmax03]

no dyno sheets here.. i was a liar.. my dyno was 203whp.

[SHIFTVQ35]

no dyno sheets here.. i was a liar.. my dyno was 203whp.With 700 ft lbs of tq lol

[vipervadim]

203 hp/ 700TQ... sounds like you got half of detroit in your engine bay

[VIP Maxima]

so far i only have the blower on 10lbs pulley, Y pipe and greddy sp2. feel me on when i say i have plenty of room to go?

I still have to do the 00vi, full cattman headers, y, hiflo cat, catback, EU + tune and some sort of cooler. that aside, im only runing on the 3.25". i can go down to 2.82 and bump up the injectors. this is like another 5 grand LOL

PP & internal work is out of the question. NOT willing to go there. I want to leave spray out of the setup too. 400WHP with no spray (unless its alcohol or something)

[Qmax03]

203whp and 166tq .. i was able to keep up with camrys and accords.

[M@neZ]

so far i only have the blower on 10lbs pulley, Y pipe and greddy sp2. feel me on when i say i have plenty of room to go?

I still have to do the 00vi, full cattman headers, y, hiflo cat, catback, EU + tune and some sort of cooler. that aside, im only runing on the 3.25". i can go down to 2.82 and bump up the injectors. this is like another 5 grand LOL

PP & internal work is out of the question. NOT willing to go there. I want to leave spray out of the setup too. 400WHP with no spray (unless its alcohol or something)

Do itt what are you waiting for????? From the y pipe just leave as is fuk the high flo cat..just put a straight pipe to the muffler....weld in a bung where the cat goes and put an anti fouler so that you don't trip the check engine light for the missing cat. Injectors I think you'll be ok....I know one of the top dogs is running stock injectors on a DE motor...its built ..but still using STOCK injectors... FMU pumps up the pressure when needed I'm assuming your running a walbro also

[TURBO_4TH-GEN]

I have yet to see anyone making 400 whp with just a supercharger. The most I have seen was 380 using a 2.87" pulley.

Their are a couple turbo maximas with 400 whp. So it is possible to see 400 whp on stock internals with the mods you mentioned. Plus you should look into J&S..


http://www.nycnissans.com/showthread.php?t=160

[STuNtMAN]

some useful info on here keep it going guys

[vipervadim]

sure supercharger = peak power...

meaning you will make
140hp@2000
160hp@3000 supercharger starts to kick in
230hp@4000
280hp@5000
340hp@6000 and like
380hp@6500

if you are lucky with the dyno and have a very good tune

supercharger = Peak power @ redline (assuming you have 00vi)

turbo = make full power/torque when turbo is spooled at like 3500

look at bishnu's 369hp@6000 graph.. and he has my port and polished lower manifold and 00vi with a larger PF TB port matched as well. with Meth injection and i believe a 3inch catback.

and on top of that DEK block vs DE block..

Dek = much better exhaust cam lift (to help with topend)
DE = better intake cam duration to help with midrange..

realistically speaking... you need a lot more supportive mods to make it to 400whp..

[tavarish]

At 400whp, you're testing the limits of a lot of things in your engine.

First and foremost, if this is your daily driver, make sure it is in good running shape. Get a compression test, and make sure no cylinders are running leaner than they should (take out plugs, inspect for color)

If you want to rev higher, I strongly recommend you get a revup 350z oil pump. It was built to carry more oil at higher RPMs, and you have the reliability of OEM.

Make sure you have a good wideband O2 sensor, and as another safety measure, get a J&S Safeguard, which can shut down individual cylinders if it detects a lean condition.

As far as mods, the easiest way you can do it, while reliably driving the car, is with nitrous. A 75 wet shot, and a smaller pulley on your existing setup will make more than 400whp, and stock internals should be able to handle it.

[VQbeatU]

P&P your lower intake mani....I would say the upper too but i do not know much about 00vi's

The mismatch between the 5th gen TB & 00vi has to be one of the worst line-ups in maxima history, it's horrid to say the least and good for alot of power.


Your problem isn't going to be the engine, it's the 5-speed tranny that is the weak link.

[SecondToNone317]

gotta shift it soft

[JZurita]

What are sleeves? :rolleyes:

[kzoosho]

Hmm i wonder ho hal made soo much power with his vq30? I mean iirc 505 ftlbs/tq 490 hp.

[yo its ok]

VQ30DE punched out to 95.5mm low comp pistons, stock DE-K rods, stock crank.
Machine work: align hone crank, spec'd for Calico Coatings Bearings, have crank balanced with OEM pulley or UR stock size.
HR valves & springs, reseated, quality of port n polish DEK heads, Cosworth head studs, HG, MEVI extrude-honed,phenolic gaskets, Q45 90mm TB.
Electonics: You need a standalone ECU. Possible to rewire ECU pins for RB25DET standalones.
EU will not unleash the full potential.

V1 and V2S support enough airflow for 450 at the crank @ 12-14psi.

[yo its ok]

Hmm i wonder ho hal made soo much power with his vq30? I mean iirc 505 ftlbs/tq 490 hp.

DET internals on Z32TT 370cc + AIC w/ twin 72lbs feeding at TB.

[SecondToNone317]

VQ30DE punched out to 95.5mm low comp pistons, stock DE-K rods, stock crank.
Machine work: align hone crank, spec'd for Calico Coatings Bearings, have crank balanced with OEM pulley or UR stock size.
HR valves & springs, reseated, quality of port n polish DEK heads, Cosworth head studs, HG, MEVI extrude-honed,phenolic gaskets, Q45 90mm TB.
Electonics: You need a standalone ECU. Possible to rewire ECU pins for RB25DET standalones.
EU will not unleash the full potential.

V1 and V2S support enough airflow for 450 at the crank @ 12-14psi.


one more time in english and full sentences because you just confused the shit out of me

[TUKO]

lmaoooooooo

[yo its ok]

one more time in english and full sentences because you just confused the shit out of me

Yank yo tree point Oh motah out dee car.
Buy some low compression pistons for VQ35DE @ 95.5 mm aka dee stock bore.
Take motor apart, only have bottom end, including crank, crank bearings, measure bore of crank journals.
See where the largest openning is via bore gauge. Write it down.
Check crank at that same spot and measure. Subtract openning size from crank size, bearing size within spec ?(Remember to divide distance in half to get bearing size)
Yes... go to go.... No... Find or buy a new crank. Remeasure, in spec ? Good... Go.
Now measure the rest of the crank bearing spots, are the bearings necessary within spec ?
At same time, send rods out to cryo treatment.(Applies to 3.0, you 3.5 guys can go buy some rods.)
Go to machine shop to have crank polished, and you will get a spec sheet on the new size of the crank journals where the bearing goes, which will be all even at this point.
Taking the largest bore off motor, where I told you to write it down, again subtract and divide in half. Do the bearing sizes needed in specs ? Should be.
Go to machine shop, have them re-bore crank journals to the largest size, and order bearings that have a dry teflon coating on them. Have them deck the top of the block as well.
Assemble bottom end, you will need to bring spec sheet of pistons, and your rods to have crankshaft balanced. Use the pulley that you will use on the motor, lightweight stock size, ATI fluidamper, or OEM.
Remember to have your 3.0 motor bored to 95.5 from 93.0 stock bore.

Once balanced, start assembling your bottom end. FSM is your friend.

Heads, take them apart , mark front head with a "1" stamp or good permanent marker. mark your shims on the heads from "I1" to "I12" for intake side. Mark "E1" to" E12" unless you want to reshim your valve bucket clearances. (Its fun if you know what you are doing, Nissan specifies 0.001 clearances in shim to valve.)
Now you can take your valves out. Leave your guides in place. Say bye bye to valve stem seals.

Head porting... oh yes the fun, if you have no idea how port, just take 60 grit 1" rolls and do a clean up job of the roughness inside your runners on the intake side first. You can gasket match the openning of the runner on intake and exhaust side, but don't go overboard.
Constantly move around in controlled motion with your grinder otherwise you will make a ditch in the runner and you WILL LOSE POWER.
If you know what you are doing, take your 3" carbide bit and grind down valve guide and start to do the clean up in the runners, clean out and run your fingers inside it, like you were fingering some chix cooch. feel for irregular bumps, and clean it up with flapper sanding bits.
If you do not understand how to clean up the BOWL on your runners, DO NOT TOUCH IT.
Once you are done, you can have it tested to see how much it flows, stock heads flow 300-320 cfm.
A cleaned up port will flow 330-360 cfm. A professionally ported head with a ported bowl will flow upwards of 410 cfm. This based on VQ30-35 ports.
Polishing is overrated and when polishing there is a chance to enlarge the openning too much, so don't do it. I know it looks pretty, but if you are doing it for the first time, DON'T DO IT ON YOUR HEADS.
Once you feel that have done a good job on porting, back to machine shop to have your heads decked.

The rest is in the FSM to assemble.
Overall process is approximately 2-3 weeks on a build like this.

[tavarish]

VQ30DE punched out to 95.5mm low comp pistons, stock DE-K rods, stock crank.
Machine work: align hone crank, spec'd for Calico Coatings Bearings, have crank balanced with OEM pulley or UR stock size.
HR valves & springs, reseated, quality of port n polish DEK heads, Cosworth head studs, HG, MEVI extrude-honed,phenolic gaskets, Q45 90mm TB.
Electonics: You need a standalone ECU. Possible to rewire ECU pins for RB25DET standalones.
EU will not unleash the full potential.

V1 and V2S support enough airflow for 450 at the crank @ 12-14psi.

I caught that. Sneaking little projects on there...If it's a standalone, it's universal, meaning modding will have to be done to the engine and wiring harness.

with low compression, the blower would be working overtime, not to mention if you want a higher rev range. Turbo would be the optimal variant, and you could definitely make some good power from this setup. Fuck a supercharger.

Also, 450 at the crank /= 400 at the wheels. Drivetrain loss is ~20 percent, so if you do have 450 at the crank, theoretically, you'd be at around 370whp, in optimal conditions, and depending on the dyno.

Of course you read the part where the OP said he didn't want to touch the internals.

[SecondToNone317]

Hogan that sounds pricey, I'll just stick with the stock 3.0 shit but good info non the less.


Just out of curiosity, how much would some build like that cost?

[yo its ok]

FSM is your friend.

Want more power out of stock block pistons and rods and make it to 400 hp ?
Clean up those heads, and wire in a standalone. (References plxdevices.com, and your FSM.)

Others such as Nistune which can be used on 4th gen cars requires 1995 Fed Spec ECU, and rewiring.
I used this setup on my car previously.

I've done experiments with the following systems. These are high buck items.
All are based on RB25DET systems. 6 coils, 6 injectors, MAF, IAT, MAP, ECT, CKPS, CAS.(If you don't understand the abbreviations, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS.)

Understand this...
RBs have a different firing order vs VQ motors. Follow RB Firing order, and each pin must re-correspond with the firing order of a VQ.
Jumper harness is a harness that adapts from one harness to another for changes in ECU pin inputs and outputs depending on application.
Need to destroy at least one factory ECU to make a good jumper harness.
Some processes require heavy modification to harnesses.
Lots of patience required.

AEM EMS PITA to tune properly, requires 12.0V to start car, need jumper harness to be made, requires resistor pack @ 6.8 ohm 10w. $1500-2000 to get you in the door. The most expensive option.
Apex i Power FC, either use jumper harness or obtain full uncut RB25DET Harness, and use your stock plugs to send signals to ECM. $950 for unit, $350 for handheld controller, $160 for boost/map kit.
SDS EFI, very complicated, requires fabrication time, and harness needs to made almost from scratch. Built one system for a VQ powered S13. Easy to tune with controller. $1400 E4F 6cyl model, requires other accessories depending on what platform you are working on and boost.
Microtech, harness needs to be made from scratch, great interface, very easy to tune, an auto configurator program will learn your cars starting sequence and build a starter map. One of the cheaper systems, but lots of time to wire up.
$800-1500

I will not go into details, but understand this is a huge step to getting power, if you feel the need for something like this, expect your car to be down for 2 weeks at the minimum. I've built 2 VQ harnesses from scratch and will charge $800 for a custom harness. Tuning service starts @ $250 upwards of $450 + any other misc costs incurred.

If you can't take the heat, get out of the kitchen.

[TURBO_4TH-GEN]

Hogan that sounds pricey, I'll just stick with the stock 3.0 shit but good info non the less.


Just out of curiosity, how much would some build like that cost?


I received a rough estimate for a complete build for $2500 to $3000 . Now this estimate was without seeing the motor. It included new bearings,timing components, new gaskets, ported heads, titanium valves and valve springs, rings, balancing the crank, reusing stock rods, and webber cams regrinds. You can subtract $700 if you eliminate the regrinds. You can also cut cost by letting Viper build the heads with VQ35HR valve springs double shimmed.

You could go with Pauter Rods for around $1000
Jwt cams for $1000.

[yo its ok]

Talking about 3.0 not 3.5, can't use 3.5 rods on a 3.0 crank.

[blackkila.gtr]

Yank yo tree point Oh motah out dee car.
Buy some low compression pistons for VQ35DE @ 95.5 mm aka dee stock bore.
Take motor apart, only have bottom end, including crank, crank bearings, measure bore of crank journals.
See where the largest openning is via bore gauge. Write it down.
Check crank at that same spot and measure. Subtract openning size from crank size, bearing size within spec ?(Remember to divide distance in half to get bearing size)
Yes... go to go.... No... Find or buy a new crank. Remeasure, in spec ? Good... Go.
Now measure the rest of the crank bearing spots, are the bearings necessary within spec ?
At same time, send rods out to cryo treatment.(Applies to 3.0, you 3.5 guys can go buy some rods.)
Go to machine shop to have crank polished, and you will get a spec sheet on the new size of the crank journals where the bearing goes, which will be all even at this point.
Taking the largest bore off motor, where I told you to write it down, again subtract and divide in half. Do the bearing sizes needed in specs ? Should be.
Go to machine shop, have them re-bore crank journals to the largest size, and order bearings that have a dry teflon coating on them. Have them deck the top of the block as well.
Assemble bottom end, you will need to bring spec sheet of pistons, and your rods to have crankshaft balanced. Use the pulley that you will use on the motor, lightweight stock size, ATI fluidamper, or OEM.
Remember to have your 3.0 motor bored to 95.5 from 93.0 stock bore.

Once balanced, start assembling your bottom end. FSM is your friend.

Heads, take them apart , mark front head with a "1" stamp or good permanent marker. mark your shims on the heads from "I1" to "I12" for intake side. Mark "E1" to" E12" unless you want to reshim your valve bucket clearances. (Its fun if you know what you are doing, Nissan specifies 0.001 clearances in shim to valve.)
Now you can take your valves out. Leave your guides in place. Say bye bye to valve stem seals.

Head porting... oh yes the fun, if you have no idea how port, just take 60 grit 1" rolls and do a clean up job of the roughness inside your runners on the intake side first. You can gasket match the openning of the runner on intake and exhaust side, but don't go overboard.
Constantly move around in controlled motion with your grinder otherwise you will make a ditch in the runner and you WILL LOSE POWER.
If you know what you are doing, take your 3" carbide bit and grind down valve guide and start to do the clean up in the runners, clean out and run your fingers inside it, like you were fingering some chix cooch. feel for irregular bumps, and clean it up with flapper sanding bits.
If you do not understand how to clean up the BOWL on your runners, DO NOT TOUCH IT.
Once you are done, you can have it tested to see how much it flows, stock heads flow 300-320 cfm.
A cleaned up port will flow 330-360 cfm. A professionally ported head with a ported bowl will flow upwards of 410 cfm. This based on VQ30-35 ports.
Polishing is overrated and when polishing there is a chance to enlarge the openning too much, so don't do it. I know it looks pretty, but if you are doing it for the first time, DON'T DO IT ON YOUR HEADS.
Once you feel that have done a good job on porting, back to machine shop to have your heads decked.

The rest is in the FSM to assemble.
Overall process is approximately 2-3 weeks on a build like this.






:shocked:

[TURBO_4TH-GEN]

Talking about 3.0 not 3.5, can't use 3.5 rods on a 3.0 crank.

My price quote was for the VQ30DE

[yo its ok]

I received a rough estimate for a complete build for $2500 to $3000 . Now this estimate was without seeing the motor. It included new bearings,timing components, new gaskets, ported heads, titanium valves and valve springs, rings, balancing the crank, reusing stock rods, and webber cams regrinds. You can subtract $700 if you eliminate the regrinds. You can also cut cost by letting Viper build the heads with VQ35HR valve springs double shimmed.

You could go with Pauter Rods for around $1000
Jwt cams for $1000.

Double shimmed ? WTF ?

PS its Web Camshafts, Webber is the carb company, weber is the bbq grille co.
If you're gonna talk about parts know the names and get the prices right. Web cam charges $177/ camshaft for a regrind. And its titanium spring retainers, no valves or valve springs available for VQ. If you did get titanium valves, springs, retainers... the parts cost alone would be over $5000.

The pipe dream motor below...

http://store.pocketrocketsracing.com/nivqnaas65.html

[NGN_TJ Max]

Going with the OP's goal. I don't think anything in this thread was even really necessary. Mike, with everything you listed yourself, i'd be surprised if you DIDNT hit 400hp. I don't even think you need the NWP spacers to be honest since you'll have the 00vi. Just my 2 cents. A 2.62" pulley on a V2 with 3 inch piping Meth and a good tune. I would say is between 370 and 410. Based on other people's setups and experiences of course.

I'm a firm believer in a DEK hitting 400hp with a good tune and the 2.62 pulley. I really am, lol.

[NGN_TJ Max]

Double shimmed ? WTF ?

PS its Web Camshafts, Webber is the carb company, weber is the bbq grille co.
If you're gonna talk about parts know the names and get the prices right. Web cam charges $177/ camshaft for a regrind. And its titanium spring retainers, no valves or valve springs available for VQ. If you did get titanium valves, springs, retainers... the parts cost alone would be over $5000.

The pipe dream motor below...

http://store.pocketrocketsracing.com/nivqnaas65.html

WTF it blew? It had ITBs and a dry sump oiling system? Holy shyt.

Yeah double shimmed, you got a problem with that! LOL. I B duble shimming shyt too yo.

[TURBO_4TH-GEN]

Double shimmed ? WTF ?

PS its Web Camshafts, Webber is the carb company, weber is the bbq grille co.
If you're gonna talk about parts know the names and get the prices right. Web cam charges $177/ camshaft for a regrind. And its titanium spring retainers, no valves or valve springs available for VQ. If you did get titanium valves, springs, retainers... the parts cost alone would be over $5000.

The pipe dream motor below...

http://store.pocketrocketsracing.com/nivqnaas65.html


That was a rough estimate. At the time I went. Most of his suppliers were closed...I believe the valve springs and valves they were going to use were Supertech.. But again it was a rough estimate and his supplier was closed. He was basing his estimate off of other Nissan motors he built.



.




Here is a copy of the email I got from Atomic.
atomicspeedware.com- ATOMIC SPEEDWARE Sales wrote: Hi- Since we spoke, I verified the VQ30DE valvetrain is the same as the VQ35DE. Here is your quote: Piston kit: ATOMIC custom (forged pistons, pins, rings & locks) - $887 Rods: PAUTER - $1117.50 Head gasket: COMETIC - $84 /ea. Head stud kit: ARP (same as VQ35DE?) - $202.50 Main stud kit: ARP - $178.20 Cams: WEB CAMSHAFTS regrind - $600.00 Valve spring & retainer kit: SUPERTECH - $624 Valves: SUPERTECH - $638.40 Bearings: ACL - $139 Sleeves: DARTON - $1035.00 Add up the required parts and deduct kit discount of 3%. Shipping is additional. Thanks, Nick Arias 3rd ATOMIC SPEEDWARE 805.552.0808 ph 805.529.9783 fx sales@atomicspeedware.com</p>


^ This is over $5000 in Parts. And Thats not what the OP needs for his goal. All he needs is N20 with his supercharger. Cometic Head Gasket, VQ35HR valve springs double" shimmed".. Injectors, walbro, Greddy Emanage.

.If read my reply you would see the words "rough estimate"... reusing my rods if they are good and crank....

[TURBO_4TH-GEN]

The guys who tried the 2.62 pulley. Had issues with the belts. I believe C max used the 2.62 pulley for a short time...

For a daily driver. 2.87 or 3.125 pulley and nitrous...


Turbo FTW..

[vipervadim]

yeah with a turbo you can hit 400 and over... and be fully spooled by 4000 (if not earlier).. no need to wait till 5500 to get a sense of high HP...

[98MaXeDouT]

The guys who tried the 2.62 pulley. Had issues with the belts. I believe C max used the 2.62 pulley for a short time...

For a daily driver. 2.87 or 3.125 pulley and nitrous...


Turbo FTW..


2.62 is very possible. Need to modify the plate, and use a non-slip blower pulley. 96sleeper has one on his car.

[NGN_TJ Max]

Here is a copy of the email I got from Atomic.
atomicspeedware.com- ATOMIC SPEEDWARE Sales wrote: Hi- Since we spoke, I verified the VQ30DE valvetrain is the same as the VQ35DE. Here is your quote: Piston kit: ATOMIC custom (forged pistons, pins, rings & locks) - $887 Rods: PAUTER - $1117.50 Head gasket: COMETIC - $84 /ea. Head stud kit: ARP (same as VQ35DE?) - $202.50 Main stud kit: ARP - $178.20 Cams: WEB CAMSHAFTS regrind - $600.00 Valve spring & retainer kit: SUPERTECH - $624 Valves: SUPERTECH - $638.40 Bearings: ACL - $139 Sleeves: DARTON - $1035.00 Add up the required parts and deduct kit discount of 3%. Shipping is additional. Thanks, Nick Arias 3rd ATOMIC SPEEDWARE 805.552.0808 ph 805.529.9783 fx sales@atomicspeedware.com</p>


^ This is over $5000 in Parts. And Thats not what the OP needs for his goal. All he needs is N20 with his supercharger. Cometic Head Gasket, VQ35HR valve springs double" shimmed".. Injectors, walbro, Greddy Emanage.

.If read my reply you would see the words "rough estimate"... reusing my rods if they are good and crank....

A bit overpriced, well, seriously overpriced.

Go Wiseco or CP pistons for 650-700, eagle h beam rods for 425 (Or am i thinking for a 3.5 only), cometic HG is fine, can go for 150 for the set, ARP Mains, 150-160, arp HStuds, 135-160, valves and regrinds? FOR WHAT? HR SPrings retainers n double shim kit about 250, ACL bearings about 120, Darton sleeves? WHY? And if your going that far might as well bore out to a 95.5 and use aftermarket vq35 pistons.

A build for under 2k that can candle 450 hp like NOTHING.

Its funny how there are no rod bolts available, or pistons or rods easily avail for the 3.0, but when u do find them, they are fuccin 2 grand. Can't believe im saying this but its true. Its cheaper to build a VQ35, you can thank the G and the Z guys for that. 3.0 its more expensive for less displacement/potential. Just my opinion though.

For that price, id buy a stroker kit for 5k and it comes with valvetrain, rods, pistons, crank, all that good stuff.

Or buy the stage 1 or 2 shortblock builds these companies, like Titan, are putting together.

Worst part of it all, to do a build correctly, your block and or head have to hit a machine shop. When it does, thatsa lot of bread alone.

[NGN_TJ Max]

Non-slip blower pulley. 96sleeper has one on his car.

Drool. Must see this device.

[TURBO_4TH-GEN]

2.62 is very possible. Need to modify the plate, and use a non-slip blower pulley. 96sleeper has one on his car.


To help the op out. Can you get 96sleeper to post pics of the modified plate? Or do you know what mod was done?

[TURBO_4TH-GEN]

yeah with a turbo you can hit 400 and over... and be fully spooled by 4000 (if not earlier).. no need to wait till 5500 to get a sense of high HP...


I'm still going to need your services... I wil bring the green tea and henny...:D

[SecondToNone317]

2.62 is very possible. Need to modify the plate, and use a non-slip blower pulley. 96sleeper has one on his car.

AFAIK there is not a 2.62 non slip pulley avaliable. There's a 2.70 one tho, unless you know something that I don't know which is very possible, put a brown brotha on homie.

[TURBO_4TH-GEN]

no pics but i found his thread

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharged-turbocharged/554549-new-pulley-s-c-now-fuel-problems-need-some-help.html


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/494867]

[NGN_TJ Max]

I'm absolutely sure the majority of boosted max owners completely overlook hardwiring the fuel pump. Why, i dunno.

[tavarish]

I'm absolutely sure the majority of boosted max owners completely overlook hardwiring the fuel pump. Why, i dunno.

it's so easy, and a walbro flows so much more at a constant 14v than at a fluctuating 12v.

I rewired my fuel pump with a relay right to the battery, havent looked back since. Took 20 mins.

[maximariceboi]

tj.....we needa talk next week..

[98MaXeDouT]

AFAIK there is not a 2.62 non slip pulley avaliable. There's a 2.70 one tho, unless you know something that I don't know which is very possible, put a brown brotha on homie.


Yup, nwell posted it, it's the 2.70".....my bad.

[TURBO_4TH-GEN]

Here is a link for Meximax VQ35 build with 2.62 pulley

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharged-turbocharged/548318-new-meximax-built-vq35-6-spd-hlsd.html

[yo its ok]

it's so easy, and a walbro flows so much more at a constant 14v than at a fluctuating 12v.

I rewired my fuel pump with a relay right to the battery, havent looked back since. Took 20 mins.

so they are on constantly when the car is off ? or did you use a relay to feed to the factory fuel pump wiring and bypassing the main relay ?

you realize that at the battery your car is still receiving the same voltage from the alternator as it would to the main relay and ecm right ?

you need this: http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm

[STuNtMAN]

Here is a link for Meximax VQ35 build with 2.62 pulley

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharged-turbocharged/548318-new-meximax-built-vq35-6-spd-hlsd.html
damn that maxima is crazy wow

[TURBO_4TH-GEN]

This is the company were 96sleeper purchased that anti slip 2.70 pulley

http://www.reichardracing.com/pulleys.php


I'm not sure if this is the exact pulley but, this is one of their anti slip pulleys used on a ford. My guess would be, the one for the vortech blower would look very similar

http://www.reichardracing.com/images/small/Reichard_composit2c.jpg